NEWS, VIEWS & REVIEWS FROM FLY FISHING SNOWDONIA
Well the new rod is nearly ready, just a couple of finishing touches before it gets an outing.
I've made no secret of the fact that I love fishing with fibreglass rods. They are tough, light, responsive and feel great when bending into a fish. What's not to like? If you think they are too soft to cast effectively you'd be wrong. Modern 'S' glass rods are powerful and can, if handled right cast a good long line. Glass rods are warm, tactile and wondrously translucent.
Martin, a good friend, fished with glass for the first time yesterday, using an 8' 4 wt rod I built last year and was an immediate convert after his catch rate out performed his favourite carbon rod.
For me fibreglass rods have more 'feel', I can detect takes more easily and when hooked the rod's softer action makes playing a fish a more pleasurable experience.
Using a glass rod isn't something that can be rushed, to get the best out of one needs a slow, gentle casting stroke that encourages the caster to relax. Using glass is a transcendental experience.
Well I finally made a decision on colours. I'm using an olive silk thread and silver trim. The silk will get darker and translucent when the resin is applied so will be muted and subtle with the silver adding a little bling. The ferrule wraps will be white silk which will become all but invisible through the finish.
I've recently received the components for my next fly rod. Over the last few years I've used fibreglass almost exclusively for my fishing and this new build will be a 7'6", 4 weight, 4 piece using an exclusive Taniwha Rodworks S-helix fibreglass blank.
At the moment I'm struggling to decide what colour whipping thread to use for the wraps on an olive blank and it's proving to be surprisingly difficult!
Lots of claims are made by manufacturers about tippet materials but how accurate are they?
Back in 2015 Yellowstone Angler performed a range of tests and a wide variety of lines. It was interesting reading then and it still is now. The article can be found by following this link
The best nylon in the test was Stroft GTM. This is an excellent tippet material, but my preference is Stroft ABR. In their review Yellowstone Angler said "The only downsides were their poor spool design and slightly higher average cost than other nylons". I disagree on the cost issue, I think this is really good value for money, especially the 100m spools, but totally agree that the spool design is poor.
The smaller 50m spools are more convenient and easier to carry than the much larger 100m spools but buying the 50m spools is way more expensive. Neigher spool systems interlock which is a pity as I prefer small 100m spools that lock together, but if you only carry one or two spools this may not be an issue.
The Tactical Pro 9' #5/6 has an anodised aluminium up locking reel seat, AAA cork reverse half wells grip and is built on a matt black blank, with Fuji SIC and REC Recoil TM titanium/nickel guides. Black whipping with a turn of red thread and white alignment dots pick out the joints and make for a no nonsense, professional finish.
The rod is light and responsive with a fast recovery but a smooth progressive action that allows for nice loops at low speed and elegant presentation casts. When a long line is aerialised the rod bends into the butt and delivers distance with ease.
It's non reflective finish and progressive action is perfect for rivers and stillwaters delivering a fly with delicate precision at close range and having enough grunt to effortlessly cast a whole flyline (if that's your thing).
I have only two negative points: 1) The grip is a little too thick for my liking, but 30 minutes with a fine sandpaper sorted that out. 2) The rod tube is square with a zipped flap, square tubes are more easily crushed and the zipped flap offers little protection at the end. For a rod of this price I'd expect a better tube to protect it.
Retail price at time of writing £500
Available from www.flytyingcompany.co.uk
Well I've been using the Redington Prowler boots for some weeks now and my first impressions are very favourable. They are well made, have a nice wide fit, are light and comfortable when worn all day and give good support and stability. They also dry fairly quickly which is important when using them in different catchments. I bought them one size bigger than my normal shoe size and they fit well. They retail at around £160, so not the cheapest out there but reasonably priced.
I enjoy wearing them and there is nothing I can be critical of. Great wading boots at a good price.
Well it was a cold, windy day on the river Dee and the fishing was slow. However I soon warmed up when a kelt (about 8lb) took a shine to my size 14 spider!
I was using a fibreglass rod I built myself on an Epic blank. The rod performed well and was bent in half for most of the time I was doing battle with my catch. Eventually, and fortunately, the kelt got off after straightening the hook on my fly.
The 'X' sizing of tippet was originally used for the cutting of catgut in to strips of uniform thickness.
The same sizing convention has since been adopted by many tippet manufacturers for nylon and fluorocarbon. The original sizing was done in fractions of an inch but has also been converted into metric measurements - the metric diameters can vary slightly between manufacturers but as we're talking about small percentages of a millimeter the variation isn't big enough to lose sleep over.
Below is a simple sizing chart for the most popular sizes of fly fishing tippet. I've kept this basic and not confused it by including breaking strains or poundage as these vary significantly between brands and materials.
It was cold today, very cold! Rod guides icing up can be a problem when winter fishing and there are a few does and a don't when this happens.
Don't try to pick or snap the ice off, this can damage your line and even break the guides. There are a few things for can use to help prevent or slow down the buildup. Lip balm, Vaseline, or even cooking oil can be lightly applied to dry guides, So be prepared and even before you start fishing apply a thin film to each guide. Don't use too much, if you need to reapply soften the ice by dipping the guides in the water before gently removing it, dry them off and re-apply your ice retardant. I have two other solutions you can try - one is Silicone Mucilin, I always have this in my pack and it works well, alternatively just pack up, go home and wait for the weather to warm up!
I've had a few pairs of zip waders and like the versatility and comfort they offer. My previous pair disappointingly lasted less than a year before the zip broke and the neoprene socks started to leak, so I decided to try a different brand this time around.
Now I do use my waders a lot and am quite demanding of them so I need a pair that will be durable and reliable, but I refuse to pay £600 - £700 plus for a top end pair that I could ruin on barbed wire on their first outing!
I settled on a pair of Redington, Sonicdry Fly Waders. These do not have stitched seams, they are ultrasonic welded, and are very well made, thick, tough and with plenty of storage pockets and even fleece lined hand warming pockets, a real bonus for winter fishing. A very substantial belt is provided and the waterproof fly zip (manufactured by German company, TIZIP) is flexible and easy to use.
The waders are roomy and comfortable with plenty of room to bend and stretch. My one criticism is with the neoprene socks are somewhat snug and I would like them to be a boot size bigger.
So in conclusion: Redington Sonicdry waders are thoughtfully designed, well made and good value but the neoprene socks are too small.
One word of warning with zipped waders, from experience, always check that the zip is done up before getting in the water!!!!
So just to be clear mono, copolymer and fluoro are all monofilament, in that it is all a single extrusion. However we anglers usually like to define them separately so for the purposes of this post that's what I'll do.
Mono & copolymer: Basically the same stuff. A relatively inexpensive nylon tippet material that has good stretching properties, now whilst this makes for good shock absorption and less risk of breaking it can reduce sensitivity and bite detection. It tends to be supple and not to have memory problems and lies straight. Diameter to strength can be excellent with better brands having surprisingly fine diameters for their breaking strain and good abrasion resistance. Mono and copolymer are not UV resistant and will eventually break down in sunlight.
Fluoro: I've got to say there are some claims made of fluoro that I don't believe and that do not stand up to scrutiny.
Take a length of each material of the same diameter and fluoro will be heavier than mono, however the claims that it sinks and so is better for sub surface fishing is a load of eyewash! If it doesn't break the surface tension of the water fluoro floats just like mono. If it breaks the surface tension fluoro and mono sinks, however fluoro does sink more quickly but if fishing a wet fly or nymph it doesn't help to sink the fly quicker.
I've read how fluoro is near invisible underwater due to its refractive index, mmmm, right!! Try this little experiment for yourself - Take a length of each material of the same diameter and place them in a glass of water, both are clearly visible. Now drop the same pieces on to the water, both will stick in the surface tension, finally poke them under the water and both will sink!
Fluoro is generally stiffer and less stretchy, this is good for bite detection but bad for snapping and memory retention. Some claim knot strength is not so good, but as long as appropriate knots are well tied I don't think there is a problem, but because it is stiffer and less flexible it may contribute to knot breaks.
Finally fluoro is UV resistant so does not break down in sunlight, this one fact is why I will not consider using it. If this stuff is left lying around it's there forever, it will not degrade!
Fluoro is a good deal more expensive than mono so you have to decide if it's worth the premium.
So to conclude: there are good and bad points with both materials, it's up to you to decide which is best for you. Personally I use and recommend good quality mono or copolymer.
The Nautilus FWX fly reel is a serious piece of tackle. Beautifully machined from a chunk of barstock aluminium to extremely precise tolerances. Everything about it screams quality, very loudly. The reel comes as standard in black or brushed silver (as pictured) but can be special ordered in a range of colours.
The technical spec on the Nautilus website is very impressive. Now you could justifiably ask why I'd want a reel with this level of sophistication when going river fishing for wild brownies or grayling, and the answer is I don't! I don't need a disc drag that would stop a raging bull, or a sand and dust proof sealed drag system, or an anodised finish to withstand saltwater, or a reel and spool that fits together with surgical precision. I don't need any of that, I could just buy a piece of junk and it would probably fulfil my needs adequately. But, and it's a big but. I don't feel the need to justify why I like good quality tackle, I just do, I like the look and feel of it, the confidence it brings when using it, the knowledge it's been manufactured with care and pride and will last a lifetime. It gives me pleasure using nice kit - and this is a very nice piece of kit.
P.S. the rubber 'O' ring on the counterweight is not standard but my own addition!
I had the good fortune to meet a very charming husband and wife yesterday and shared a few very pleasant hours on the river with them.
As we walked from our cars the conversation turned to casting and the start and finish points of the acceleration stroke. I said I didn't subscribe the the 10 to 2 method they had previously been taught and when we were on the water I went on to explain why.
Now I'm not saying an acceleration stroke that starts and finishes at these points on a clock face won't work, but it won't work all the time! It ignores the fundamental principles that make for an efficient cast. It also ignores weather conditions and the desired outcome from a cast.
I accept instructors will have different styles of teaching but the content of instruction should be correct and based on the fundamental casting principles.
Guided fly fishing trips on rivers, streams and upland lakes in Snowdonia. and surrounding areas of North Wales.
Fishing for summer & winter grayling and wild brown trout.in the spectacular, tranquil countryside that is Snowdonia National Park.
Fly fishing and casting lessons for beginners. Casting fault analysis, single handed spey, slack line and presentation casting tuition for more experienced fly fishers.
Develop your watercraft skills on freestone rivers and upland lakes.